A few months ago, I was relaxing at my favorite matcha café, flipping through a new novel—or at least pretending to. As I skimmed the dedication page, wondering who all these people were (was Janice still the one?), my eyes caught sight of two guys outside doing a little DMC. Their trousers were oversized, baggy, almost balloon-like. They wore bandanas tied around their heads and tabi shoes—footwear typical of Japanese construction workwear. Yet, we were nowhere near a building site, nor in Japan.
That image lingered. Soon, I began spotting the style everywhere—not just in real life, but all over the internet. Instagram, TikTok, Pinterest—even BlueSky. My feed was flooded with London guys sporting this Japanese construction clothing-inspired attire. What I had thought was a niche fascination had clearly grown into a full-fledged trend quietly weaving its way into men’s fashion over recent years. Just three weeks ago, British TikToker Aly Meghani shared a detailed tutorial, showing how quickly this trend is evolving.
This style draws heavily from the tobi shokunin—skilled workers who navigate scaffolding and skyscrapers at dizzying heights. While their construction work clothes are far from glamorous, their uniforms offer a surprisingly stylish streetwear edge. A classic tobi outfit includes a cropped jacket, loose-fitting nikka-bokka construction pants (inspired by American knickerbockers, hence the name), split-toe jika-tabi boots, and a cotton tenugui headwrap designed to absorb sweat. Sometimes they add a pinstriped denim jumpsuit, outfitted with multiple pockets, loops, and chunky metal hardware—essential elements of protective workwear.
“The tobi look combines tradition with practicality,” explains Yokohama-based stylist Brooke Crum. “Over time, these construction clothes adapted to meet the needs of workers—breathable wide-leg pants for hot weather, tabi boots that provide grip yet remain lightweight. Originally made for work, these garments have evolved into stylish, comfortable pieces men want to wear.”
By the 2010s, this look had become a common sight in Harajuku, Tokyo’s eclectic fashion hub, where young trendsetters embraced the blue-collar aesthetic. Around then, Blue’s Magazine launched, a publication celebrating construction culture alongside rising interest in the tobi style.
“In Japan, there’s a strong cultural emphasis on respecting masters and elders,” says Tsuyoshi Ikedo, senior marketing advisor at Kith and New Balance Japan. “This philosophy is captured by the concept of shuhari—a three-stage journey of mastery: shu (to preserve), ha (to break), and ri (to transcend). Apprentices start by faithfully copying their masters, only later breaking the form to develop their own style. Without mastering shu, they can’t progress to ha or ri.
“The ongoing popularity and transformation of the tobi construction workwear reflects this deep-rooted tradition of discipline, respect, and kinship.”
This tradition is echoed by some smaller, more specialized labels, like Yurinox Workwear, which focus on blending heritage construction clothes with modern materials and practical design.
Now, designers like Hiroki Nakamura of Visvim, Shinsuke Takizawa of Neighborhood, and Takahiro Miyashita of The Soloist are embracing and elevating this aesthetic. Auralee showcased it during Paris Fashion Week with navy chore jackets and oversized construction shirts and pants. Undercover leaned heavily on traditional headwear and patterned overalls in its Spring 2022 collection. In late 2020, American artist Daniel Arsham collaborated with Japanese workwear brand Toraichi on a fully tobi-inspired capsule. It’s no surprise that menswear enthusiasts outside Japan soon jumped on the trend.
“For those unfamiliar, it just looks insanely cool—these huge construction work pants and bandanas that builders wear,” says Tokyo-based fashion reporter Ashley Ogawa Clarke. “I’ve seen tons of fashion accounts on Instagram posting about it—nobody pulls off a fit like a Japanese builder.”
“I stumbled on the trend by accident,” adds Meghani, who posted the recent how-to video. “I didn’t like how most baggy jeans fit, and while browsing online, I found nikka-bokka pants. They had exactly the balloon leg with a cinched bottom I wanted.”
This surge ties into a larger Western fascination with niche Japanese brands. LVMH’s recent acquisition of cult favorite Kapital and Puma’s collaboration with Blue Blue Japan highlight this trend. While Japanese streetwear—often inspired by American styles—has been accessible in the U.S. for a while, traditional Japanese construction clothing has only recently caught on overseas.
“In Japan, American vintage was once seen as a status symbol, while Japanese vintage was for those who couldn’t afford anything else,” says Laureano Faedi, founder of San Francisco’s Paloma, which creates custom leather goods using classic Japanese methods. “Now, as people seek out Japanese vintage, these traditional styles are gaining popularity and influencing other trends, like the barrel-leg jean.”
It also represents a natural evolution in workwear. Brands like Carhartt WIP, Dickies, and Timberland still dominate Western markets. But with so many wearing Detroit jackets, cargo pants, and work shirts, the look might be a bit overdone. “Japanese labels like Meanswhile draw direct inspiration from kuchofuku—air-conditioned jackets worn by tobi workers to stay cool in humid heat,” says Tim McTavish, creative director of menswear shop This Thing of Ours.
“American workwear emphasizes ruggedness and durability, often with thick fabrics like corduroy and duck canvas,” explains Nagoya-based fashion creator Dai Tanaka. “Japanese workwear focuses on pride and craftsmanship, with an emphasis on shape and silhouette. It’s elegant and subtle, whereas American workwear can feel more rough and utilitarian.”
Still, the tobi influence isn’t new. “Designers like Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto have long explored these forms, mixing Eastern and Western elements in fresh, thoughtful ways,” notes Crum. “You’re more likely to see these silhouettes in cities like Paris or Berlin than the U.S., where experimental style and structure are embraced.”
In that spirit, the appeal of workwear has grown far beyond the construction site. Take the Men’s Bib Overall, for example—an evolved version of the classic R01. It’s built from heavyweight cotton duck, with thoughtful features like reinforced knees, extra stretch around the waist, and front-to-back kick panels—improvements shaped by the real-world insights of those in construction clothes and trades. Elastic suspenders and functional pocket placement reflect how workwear is being reimagined not only for durability but also comfort.
Similarly, the Unionworkwear Semi-Overalls Status draws from the same ethos. With its anatomical knee design and straight-leg cut, this piece adds flexibility and movement where it’s needed most—perfect for both hard labor and casual wear. A breathable cotton-poly blend ensures both comfort and resilience against dirt and abrasion. The adjustable elastic straps with quick-release buckles and multi-functional chest pocket highlight how construction work clothes have evolved into garments suited for life well beyond the jobsite.
Then there’s the legendary Tabi boot by Maison Margiela, which became iconic after its debut in 1988—when a shirtless model strode through Paris in split-toe footwear. Margiela didn’t invent the design, but he made it famous.
Since then, brands like Nike and Vetements have riffed on the split-toe shoe. In 2020, Reebok teamed up with Margiela for a tabi-inspired version of the Instapump Fury sneaker and later the Classic Leather. Yet, nothing beats the original. “The Tabi boot is the most important piece of my career,” Margiela once said. “It’s instantly recognizable and still relevant after 25 years.”
What began as purely functional construction workwear has transformed into a global fashion phenomenon. The Japanese construction worker style isn’t just about appearance; it symbolizes belonging. Like the tobi shokunin, it’s rooted in pride, discipline, and camaraderie. This brotherhood vibe appeals to fashion enthusiasts much like other tight-knit Japanese subcultures, such as yankii or bosozoku biker gangs—just less chaotic.
For many menswear fans in the West, that sense of community is key. Whether through group chats, Subreddits, Discord servers, or Instagram comment sections, the shared passion mirrors the tobi spirit. It’s about trading style tips, respecting the masters, and bonding over a mutual love of design. It’s a way to embrace workwear differently—a step ahead of the usual double-knee pants crowd.
Kachi, who runs a construction company in Tokyo and Sendai, sums it up: “It doesn’t bother me that people wear tobi-inspired clothes as fashion. These days, workwear is made to look good—so if folks like the style, why not?”
